Tides
are the alternating rise and fall of sea levels. Around the world,
water levels in seas and the rivers connected to them rise and fall
approximately twice a day. Tides should not be confused with waves.
Waves are large ripples that move across the surface of water. Waves
are caused by wind.
Tides
are caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun on
the earth and its waters. The moon has a stronger effect than the
sun because the moon is closer to earth.
To
understand when and why tides rise and fall, you must consider astronomy.
The earth makes one complete rotation on its axis per day. Therefore,
a site on earth will face the moon once a day. For any place on
earth, high tide occurs when the site is nearest (faces) the moon.
Water levels rise as the moon's gravity pulls on the earth's water.
The second time this site experiences high tide is when the site
is farthest from the moon (about twelve hours later). Here, the
moon's gravity is weakest. The water withstands being pulled away
by the moon. Also, the centrifugal force of the spinning earth contributes
to this high level of water. After each period of high tide, a low
tide occurs at the site. The earth turns, and the site no longer
faces the moon, nor faces directly away from the moon. Sea and river
levels lower as the moon pulls water away.
A rising
tide is called a flood tide. As ocean levels rise, seawater along
the coast is pushed up into rivers that are connected to the ocean.
The flood tide introduces seawater into the freshwater environment
of the river. Flood tides may travel as fast as 25 km (15 miles)
per hour. They may temporarily reverse downstream current, so that
the river flows upstream during the flood tide!
A falling
tide is called an ebb tide. As ocean levels fall, the shoreline
retreats seaward. During an ebb tide, water currents carry freshwater
and sediments from rivers out into the sea. Sediments from the river
help nourish sea life along the shore.
During
certain days of the month, high tides are especially high, and low
tides are especially low. These are called spring tides. They occur
about twice a month. Spring tides are also the result of astronomy
(they are not related to the season spring, which begins in the
month of March). The moon makes one revolution around the earth
each month (once every 29.5 days). Spring tides occur when the moon
is lined up with the earth and sun (see picture). This happens two
ways: when the moon is in between the earth and the sun, and when
the moon and sun are on opposite sides of the earth. The gravity
of the sun and moon line up and cause these especially high tides.
When
the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth, neap tides occur
(see picture). During neap tides, high and low tides are less exaggerated
than during spring tides. This is because the gravity of the sun
and moon pull on the earth's water from conflicting angles.
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